is superior in its re-imagination of an haute Portu- guese cuisine, without the increasingly common “tricked up” effects found in so many one-star Michelin restaurants: it is simple, original and ef- fective. Remarkably everything on the menu suc- ceeds in marrying, unusually, elements of health, very fine preparation, and taste – an aspect seem- ingly ignored often enough these days in the quest for “sculptural presentation” or somesuch. Menu standouts include filet of Turbot with Kale sauce, pot au feu of baby black pig, and the finest dessert I have ever tasted , an Italian meringue with citronnelle infusion. Based on four consec- utive visits, this is surely an outstanding one-star Michelin awaiting its star.
two visits makes it in my humble opinion a two- star Michelin, and well ahead of others so award-
ed in that city. BAHR, Lisbon
Portugal, too, is on many people’s lists, and jus- tifiably: it is one of Europe’s most energising and romantic cities. Indeed, a decent number of ex- pats from elsewhere in Europe and the US have chosen to relocate there in recent years. Its much vaunted culinary reputation is, though, a bit over- done, based on a sample of ten. Yes, there is some marvellous cooking of the ubiquitous codfish, and so on – but the upper reaches of gastronomy are still largely empty. Bairro Alto Hotel Restaurant (abbreviated to BAHR) is the exception. It sits on the top floor of this elegant large boutique – pricey, but beauti- fully located and most agreeable. The restaurant
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