FROM THE GASTRONOMY DIARIES By Maurice Crackentorpe
THE WORLD’S ONLY LUXURY ICEBREAKER
My essay in progress on the great Michelin Guides’ “stumbling performance” in Asia has many examples to point to across the region, of both inappropriate recommendations and inexcusable omissions. I say this with great respect to Michelin as it was a formative influ- ence, in the days when it existed only in France and there were but 11 three-star establish- ments in the world, all in the same country. Its discernment then was clear-eyed, exquisite and on point, an epitome of Gallic rigour. Since then, expansion and modernity have taken something of a toll. For our frequent travellers, restaurant buffs and real gastronomes, here are two omissions, in favoured and wonderful destinations: Osaka and Lisbon.
Quintocanto, Osaka Of course, there are many Australians who adore Japan and are avid repeat visitors. Along with its many other inducements, this great city offers a culinary treat par excellence. It is not often that one meets a true culinary genius, as opposed to the latest “rock star” chef, but here is one: A 32-year-old mostly self-taught wizard. As some know, there are a handful of fine chefs in Tokyo and Osaka who have long been smitten by the concept of an Italian x Japanese fusion. Quintoc- ento, now in business for 10 years under the same chef/owner (since age 22!), takes this concept to the highest level. The 10-course degustation is an adventure of singular skill and imagination com- bined with the finest ingredients from both Italy and Japan. This restaurant’s performance over
1300 737 178 | au.ponant.com | or contact your travel agent
INNOVATIA
INNOVATIA
| Travel
507
Powered by FlippingBook