Innovatia

Luang Prabang, Laos (and Vientiane) Formerly the royal capital, this immensely agreeable small town-slash-city sits on a penin- sula surrounded on both sides by the slow but mighty Mekong River. There are more than 80 Wats, (temples) and many more orange robed monks who walk quietly in groups along the city’s narrow streets. This is a relaxed walking city with few cars and no congestion. Given its royal status, it has been well preserved with strictly limited opportunities for new develop- ment, much to the government’s credit. Over the past 20 years, as it has begun to open up to tourists, it has attracted a largely

Kong. Vientiane is well worth 2 days or more in itself, an experience of “old SE Asia” where trac- es of Gallic flavour remain – and at a distance of 300 kilometres, it’s close enough to rent a car and drive. Bhutan It is impossible to exaggerate the staggering natural beauty of Bhutan, or the sense of total immersion in the traditional Tibetan culture. Patriarchal and liberal, the wise King moved the country from a feudal state into a constitu- tional democracy some years ago with the as- sistance of an acquaintance of mine from Stan- ford University and other consultants, at the same time beginning to open very selectively to tourism.

older European clientele which has informed its growth. New pleasures include a small Swiss bakery and various other low-key but re- fined shops, as well as an ambitious fine din- ing culture. There are a number of excellent lo- cal and more upmarket French/Laotian fusion restaurants, several of which have good cook- ing courses that include day trips to the many small specialty farms in the vicinity. The local music played spontaneously by locals for wed- dings and countless other festivities assuages the senses, and conversations with monks are part of the daily life. Luang Prabang has a near magical atmosphere. In my view, it equals or

surpasses that of Ubud, Bali or Kandy, Sri Lan- ka – all three of which deserve a week-long vis- it – for the title of “most engaging and pleas- ant small city environment in SE Asia”. Not to mention the available side trips – in my case, a thrilling Hilux rental drive through the hill tribe country north to the Chinese border, which is another story entirely. Luang Prabang is quietly sophisticated, deeply Buddhist and with abundant activities in town and out. The lodging now includes a superior Sofitel with brand-typical savoir-faire and elegance, as well as a wide range of low- er cost options including delightful boarding houses where guests dine together. Airline connections are easy, routed through Vientiane from Singapore, Bangkok or Hong

INNOVATIA

482

INNOVATIA

| Travel

483